Publications scientifiques

Cette page liste les productions scientifiques ou autres liées notamment à l'observation du niveau de la mer, à l'instrumentation ou aux applications.

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Impacts des séries de tempêtes de 2013 à 2018 sur l’évolution récente des cordons dunaires du nord de la France

Dans cet article, nous étudions l’évolution des cordons dunaires à l’est de Dunkerque, au nord de la France, sur une période s’étalant de novembre 2012 à février 2018. Elle se base sur l’analyse de relevés topographiques à haute fréquence, couplés à des données marégraphiques et de vent à la côte ainsi qu’à des enregistrements de vagues au large. Cette période d’étude a été marquée par plusieurs événements tempétueux dont les plus remarquables se sont produits au cours de l’hiver 2013/2014 ainsi qu’en janvier 2017 et en janvier 2018.
  • Article scientifique

A. Zemmour, M.-H. Ruz
Géomorphologie, volume 27
Illustration des limites utilisées pour le calcul des variations de volumes sédimentaires de la dune, du haut de plage et de l’estran

The contribution of short-wave breaking to storm surges: The case Klaus in the Southern Bay of Biscay

This study investigates the contribution of short-wave breaking to storm surges through a high-resolution hindcast of the sea state and storm surge associated with the extra-tropical storm Klaus. This storm made landfall in January 2009 in the Southern Bay of Biscay and produced the largest storm surges observed in this region over the last 20 years, with 1.70 m in the Arcachon Lagoon and 1.10 m in the Adour Estuary.
  • Article scientifique

L. Lavaud, X. Bertin, K. Martins, G. Arnaud, M.-N. Bouin
Ocean Modelling, volume 156
(A) Bathymetric map and extension of the computational domain (red dashdotted line), the storm track (blue dashed line and crosses) and the wave buoys (blue triangles) used in this study. (B) and (C) Detailed bathymetry of the studied areas with location of the tide gauges (black stars). The black box in (B) corresponds to the adjacent beach where the sensitivity of storm surge and wave setup predictions to the grid resolution is analysed.

Assessment of the Shoreline Evolution at the Eastern Giens Tombolo of France

Giens double tombolo linking Giens island to the mainland is a unique geomorphological formation in the world. However, its existence has been threatened by coastal erosion, especially in the eastern part of this tombolo. The investigation of historical shoreline changes along the eastern Giens tombolo were carried out applying the integration of satellite remote sensing and geographic information system (GIS) techniques. Additionally, the combination of the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) and linear regression method was used to predict the location of future shorelines.
  • Article scientifique

M. T. Vu, Y. Lacroix, Q. H. Vu
Proceedings of the International Conference on Innovations for Sustainable and Responsible Mining, Springer, Cham
Proceedings of the International Conference on Innovations for Sustainable and Responsible Mining

Timescales of emergence of chronic nuisance flooding in the major economic centre of Guadeloupe

Chronic flooding, occurring at high tides under calm weather conditions, is occasionally taking place today in the low-lying areas of the Petit-Cul-de-sac marin (Guadeloupe, West Indies, French Antilles). This area includes critical industrial, harbor and major economic infrastructures for the island. As sea level rises, concerns are growing regarding the possibility for repeated chronic flooding events, which would alter the operations at these critical coastal infrastructures without appropriate adaptation.
  • Article scientifique

G. Le Cozannet, I. Déborah, M. de Michele, Y. Legendre, M. Moisan, R. Pedreros, R. Thiéblemont, G. Spada, D. Raucoules, Y. de la Torre
NHESS
tide gauge data. (a) time series of raw data (black: raw cleaned data, red: data removed from the analysis, and  corresponding to the cyclones, identified with blue lines). (b) distribution of daily maxima, after the water level data post510 processing described in section 3.3 (cyclone removed, year and day filtering, detrended sea-level rise).

Influence des modifications morphologiques de l'avant-côte sur l'hydrodynamisme et l'évolution du littoral des Hauts-de-France depuis le XIXe siècle

Dans les environnements côtiers, les interactions entre les processus morphodynamiques, océanographiques et anthropiques (agissant sur différentes échelles de temps) contrôlent l'évolution des systèmes littoraux. Cette thèse est axée sur une échelle de temps séculaire afin de déterminer l'influence non seulement des activités humaines, mais aussi l'impact du changement climatique.
  • Article scientifique

A. Latapy
Université Littoral Côte d'Opale - LOG
Thèse Latapy

Climate-scale changes of the semidiurnal tide over the North Atlantic coasts from 1846 to 2018

We investigated the long-term changes of the principal tidal component M₂ over the North Atlantic coasts, from 1846 to 2018. We analysed 9 tide gauges with time series starting no later than 1920. The longest is Brest with 165 years of observations. We carefully processed the data, particularly to remove the 18.6-year nodal modulation. We found that M₂ variations are consistent at all the stations in the North East Atlantic (Newlyn, Brest, Cuxhaven), whereas some discrepancies appear in the North West Atlantic.
  • Article scientifique

L. Pineau Guillou, P. Lazure, G. Wöppelmann
Ocean Science
Tide gauges in the North Atlantic. Stations with time series starting before 1920 and longer than 80 years are labelled. Stations selected for this study are in bold

On the use of long term observation of water level and temperature along the shore for a better understanding of the dynamics: Example of Toulon area, France

A dense network of instruments has been deployed within harbors along the Mediterranean coast, in the Toulon Metropole area, between the Hyères islands and the Sanary Bay in the framework of the observation network HTM-NET. Each station is equipped with two piezometric sensors, the first immersed and the second emerged, which allows the calculation of the water level. Both piezometric sensors are also equipped with a temperature sensor. Water level and temperature data are analyzed and discussed, also considering meteorological data provided by Météo-France stations.
  • Article scientifique

V. Rey, C. Dufresne, J.-L. Fuda, D. Mallarino, T. Missamou, C. Paugam, G. Rougier, I. Taupier-Letage
Ocean Dynamics, volume 70
Example of data series: (a) water level, (b) water temperature, site of La  Seyne/Ifremer (IF).

Quality control of in situ sea level observations: a review and progress towards automated quality control - Volume 1

The Global Sea-Level Observing System (GLOSS, https://www.gloss-sealevel.org/) is an international programme conducted under the auspices of the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission (IOC)of UNESCO. GLOSS aims at the establishment of high quality global and regional sea level networks for application to climate, oceanographic and coastal sea level research. The programme became known as GLOSS as it provides data for deriving the 'Global Level of the Sea Surface'.
  • Recommandation

Commission océanographique intergouvernementale
UNESCO
Quality control of in situ sea level observations: a review and progress towards automated quality control, volume 1

Assessing the Role of Storm Waves and River Discharge on Sediment Bypassing Mechanisms at the Têt River Mouth in the Mediterranean (Southeast France)

River mouths along sandy coastlines are influenced by alongshore transport of littoral sands and the interaction of hydrodynamics processes at the river mouth. These interaction are responsible for opening/closure of river outlets and subsequent episodes of sand bypassing by spitbreaching. Here, we study these mechanisms of alongshore sediment bypassing at a river mouth along the French Mediterranean coast. Over the last 6 years, bypassing processes were found to be associated with spit elongation and spit breaching.
  • Article scientifique

Y. Balouin, F. Bourrin, F. Meslard, E. Palvadeau, N. Robin
Journal of Coastal research, volume 95
Couverture - Journal of Coastal Research, volume 95