Publications scientifiques

Cette page liste les productions scientifiques ou autres liées notamment à l'observation du niveau de la mer, à l'instrumentation ou aux applications.

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Data rescue process in the context of sea level reconstructions: An overview of the methodology, lessons learned, up-to-date best practices and recommendations

Coastal water level measurements represent one of the earliest geophysical measurements and allow an assessment of historical sea level rise and trends in tides, river flow and storm surge. However, recovery and digitization of archival tidal records have been much less widespread and systematic than, for example meteorological records. In this contribution, we discuss data rescue efforts and lessons learned in France, the United States and the United Kingdom, countries with early and extensive tide gauge networks by the mid-19th century.
  • Article scientifique

A. Latapy, Y. Ferret, L. Testut, S. Talke, T. Aarup, F. Pons, G. Jan, E. Bradshaw, N. Pouvreau
Geoscience Data Journal, volume 10
Example of several forms of marigrams: With multiple curves over a month at Saint-Nazaire (Atlantic Sea) (a), with a  single curve per marigram over a week at a microtidal mixed semidiurnal site in the Mediterranean Sea (Sète) recording a storm surge in  December 1997 (source: Cerema/DREAL Occitanie) (b) or at another microtidal mixed semidiurnal site in the Caribbean Sea (pointe à Pitre)  (c) (sources: Shom); zoom on a marigram recorded in Dunkirk (North Sea) in 1865 over a month with significant holes and

Apport de l'imagerie satellitaire pour l'identification et la cartographie des habitats littoraux de Mayotte soumis à une subsidence rapide

L’île de Mayotte (canal du Mozambique), offre une grande diversité de littoraux influencés par son vaste complexe récifo-lagonaire. Ces habitats (plages, platiers coralliens, herbiers, mangroves…) remplissent des fonctions écologiques reconnues : protection contre l’érosion côtière, consommation du CO2 atmosphérique, zone critique de biodiversité.
  • Article scientifique

A. Aubry, A. Tempere
Paralia - XVIIèmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier – Génie Civil, Chatou
Localisation de la zone d’étude (a et b), et contexte associé aux mouvements  verticaux de Mayotte : c) subsidence observée, données GNSS (Coordination  observations géodésiques à Mayotte) et d) variation du niveau marin observé depuis  1963 (données REFMAR).

Etude de l'impact d'une tempête extrême sur la Grande Plage de Biarritz en présence d'une digue amovible en sacs de sable

La Grande Plage de Biarritz a connu plusieurs événements de tempêtes extrêmes ces dernières décennies qui ont causé d’importants dégâts matériels sur les ouvrages et bâtiments situés en front de mer. Ces événements ont conduit à la mise en place d’une stratégie de protection des infrastructures et des usagers qui intègre notamment le déploiement d’une digue amovible en sacs de sable sur le perré situé en haut de plage.
  • Article scientifique

M. Rozki, D. Morichon, M. Delpey, V. Roeber, S. Abadie
Paralia - XVIIèmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier – Génie Civil, Chatou
Étude de l’impact d’une tempête extrême sur la Grande Plage de Biarritz en présence d’une digue amovible en sacs de sable

Bayesian networks to predict storm impact using data from both monitoring networks and statistical learning methods

Bayesian networks are probabilistic graphical models that are increasingly used to translate hydraulic boundary conditions during storm events into onshore hazards. However, comprehensive databases that are representative of the extreme and episodic nature of storms are needed to train the Bayesian networks. Such databases do not exist for many sites and many Bayesian networks are trained on data generated by process-based models. To our knowledge, they have not been trained exclusively on observational data for storm impact modeling.
  • Article scientifique

A. Callens, D. Morichon, B. Liquet
Natural Hazards, volume 115
Scatter plot of water level vs significant wave height showing the storm impact regime observed and synthetized by the statistical learning method

A database for sea-level monitoring in French Polynesia

This article presents a curated database of the sea-level measurements acquired by the network of the five geodetic tide gauges managed over French Polynesia by the Geodesy Observatory of Tahiti from 13 June 2009 to 28 January 2021.
  • Article scientifique

J.-P. Barriot, F. Zhang, B. Ducarme, G. Wöppelmann, G. André, A. Gabillon
Geoscience Data Journal, volume 10
Makemo tide station (RADAR sensor). Top: Residual signal showing nontidal sea-level variations. Bottom: Monthly values of the nontidal variations showing the seasonal variations associated with Sa = 5 cm.

Technical note: On seasonal variability of the M₂ tide

Seasonal variability of the M₂ ocean tide can be detected at many ports, perhaps most. Examination of the cluster of tidal constituents residing within the M₂ tidal group can shed light on the physical mechanisms underlying seasonality. In the broadest terms these are astronomical, frictional–advective interactions, and climate processes; some induce annual modulations and some semiannual, in amplitude, phase, or both. This note reviews how this occurs and gives an example from each broad category.
  • Recommandation

R. D. Ray
Ocean Science, volume 18
Spectrum of sea level at Saint-Malo, on the northern coast of France, focusing on the M2 group but with the central M2 constituent estimated and removed to better delineate the much smaller sidelines. The spectrum is based on 16 years of data. After spectral smoothing, the frequency resolution is approximately 0.2 cpy (or 0.0005 cpd), insufficient to clearly separate MSK2 from Γ2. The seasonal modulation of M2 at Saint-Malo is evidently dominated by the two frictional compound tides, although α2 is also imp

Hourly sea level height forecast based on GNSS-IR by using ARIMA model

Multi-satellite and Multi-Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) types provide more basic data for the monitoring of sea level height by Global Navigation Satellite System Interferometric Reflectometry (GNSS-IR) technology. Few studies predict sea level height with high temporal resolution. This study proposes a theory based on GNSS-IR technology and Auto Regressive Integrated Moving Average (ARIMA) model. Taking the MAYG station as an example, the process of sea level height prediction and the determination of the best prediction scheme are shown.
  • Article scientifique

N. Zheng, H. Chai, Y. Ma, L. Chen, P. Chen
International Journal of Remote Sensing, volume 43
Diagram of the compensation hourly average sea level height retrieved by GNSS-IR  technology and sea level height predicted 24 h by 1 tide cycle with the measured height of the  tide gauge and its correlation analysis chart (The red scatter in (a) is the mean sea level height  obtained after preprocessing, the cyan scatter is the result obtained by interpolation, and the  purple scatter in (b) is the results predicted by 1 tide level period for 24 h. The color bar  represents the density of points. Moreover

Water Level Modulation of Wave Transformation, Setup and Runup Over La Saline Fringing Reef

Coral reefs represent an efficient natural mechanical coastal defense against ocean waves. The focus of this study is La Saline fringing coral reef, located in the microtidal West of La Réunion Island in the Indian Ocean, frequently exposed to Southern Ocean swell and cyclonic events. The aim is to provide a better understanding of the reef's coastal defense characteristics for several Southern Ocean swell events. Pressure sensors were placed across the reef to measure water level fluctuations and to study wave transformation.
  • Article scientifique

W. Bruch, E. Cordier, F. Floc'h, S. G. Pearson
JGR Oceans, volume 127
Wave energy spectrum: Temporal evolution at the reef slope (RS) station (a) and at the reef flat (RF) station (c), Total mean wave spectrum over the 53-day of experiment at RS station (b) and at the RF station (d). The black lines represent the frequency bands boundaries (0.04 Hz for IG/GW bands and 0.004 Hz for VLF/IG bands) Periods P1, P2 and P3, corresponding to the wave events of interest, are highlighted by the purple boxes.

Determination of weather-induced short-term sea level variations by GNSS reflectometry

We propose to derive local sea level variations by using the Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) of the GNSS reflected signals at four GNSS single antenna sites (ILDG, TAR0, FFT2, LYTT) located at different latitudes. For these sites representing various ocean conditions (waves, tides, storm surges, etc…), tides estimates by SNR are highly consistent to tide gauges records as highlighted by tidal harmonic analysis, with a Root-Sum-Square (RSS) ranging from few centimeter in micro-tidal environment to near a decimeter in macro-tidal environment.
  • Article scientifique

T. Gravalon, L. Seoane, G. Ramillien, J. Darrozes, L. Roblou
Remote Sensing of Environment, volume 279
Couverture - Remote Sensing of Environment