Publications scientifiques

Cette page liste les productions scientifiques ou autres liées notamment à l'observation du niveau de la mer, à l'instrumentation ou aux applications.

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Water Level Modulation of Wave Transformation, Setup and Runup Over La Saline Fringing Reef

Coral reefs represent an efficient natural mechanical coastal defense against ocean waves. The focus of this study is La Saline fringing coral reef, located in the microtidal West of La Réunion Island in the Indian Ocean, frequently exposed to Southern Ocean swell and cyclonic events. The aim is to provide a better understanding of the reef's coastal defense characteristics for several Southern Ocean swell events. Pressure sensors were placed across the reef to measure water level fluctuations and to study wave transformation.
  • Article scientifique

W. Bruch, E. Cordier, F. Floc'h, S. G. Pearson
Date de sortie 25/06/2022
JGR Oceans, volume 127
Wave energy spectrum: Temporal evolution at the reef slope (RS) station (a) and at the reef flat (RF) station (c), Total mean wave spectrum over the 53-day of experiment at RS station (b) and at the RF station (d). The black lines represent the frequency bands boundaries (0.04 Hz for IG/GW bands and 0.004 Hz for VLF/IG bands) Periods P1, P2 and P3, corresponding to the wave events of interest, are highlighted by the purple boxes.

Determination of weather-induced short-term sea level variations by GNSS reflectometry

We propose to derive local sea level variations by using the Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) of the GNSS reflected signals at four GNSS single antenna sites (ILDG, TAR0, FFT2, LYTT) located at different latitudes. For these sites representing various ocean conditions (waves, tides, storm surges, etc…), tides estimates by SNR are highly consistent to tide gauges records as highlighted by tidal harmonic analysis, with a Root-Sum-Square (RSS) ranging from few centimeter in micro-tidal environment to near a decimeter in macro-tidal environment.
  • Article scientifique

T. Gravalon, L. Seoane, G. Ramillien, J. Darrozes, L. Roblou
Date de sortie 21/06/2022
Remote Sensing of Environment, volume 279
Couverture - Remote Sensing of Environment

Combination of Tsoft and ET34-ANA-V80 software for the preprocessing and analysis of tide gauge data in French Polynesia

Since 2008 a network of five sea-level monitoring stations was progressively installed in French Polynesia. The stations are autonomous and data, collected at a sampling rate of 1 or 2 min, are not only recorded locally, but also transferred in real time by a radio-link to the NOAA through the GOES satellite. The new ET34-ANA-V80 version of ETERNA, initially developed for Earth Tides analysis, is now able to analyze ocean tides records.
  • Article scientifique

B. Ducarme, J.-P. Barriot, F. Zhang
Date de sortie 15/06/2022
Geodesy and Geodynamics, volume 14
Combination of Tsoft and ET34-ANA-V80 software for the preprocessing and analysis of tide gauge data in French Polynesia

A locally relevant framework for assessing the risk of sea level rise under changing temperature conditions: Application in New Caledonia, Pacific Ocean

Sea level rise is a key feature in a warmer world and its impact can be seen globally. Assessing climate change-induced sea level rise, therefore, is urgently needed particularly in small island nations, where the threats of sea level rise are immediate, but the level of preparedness is low. Here, we propose a stochastic simulator to link changes in Mean Annual Temperature (MAT) to Mean Annual Sea Level (MASEL) at the local scale. This is through what-if scenarios that are developed based on the association between local temperature and sea level.
  • Article scientifique

M. Kaemo, E. Hassanzadeh, A. Nazemi
Date de sortie 26/04/2022
Science of The Total Environment, volume 834
Graphical abstract

Spatio-temporal variability of the morpho-sedimentary dynamics observed on two gravel beaches in response to hydrodynamic forcing

This article aims to investigate the 3D morpho-sedimentary dynamics of two gravel beaches in relation to hydrodynamic forcing, using a multi-sensor approach. Study sites, namely Etretat and Hautot-sur-Mer, are both located in Normandy, France. Thus, they face similar wave conditions of the English channel's eastern side, with megatidal ranges and channelized wave orientations.
  • Article scientifique

A. Saloy, I. Turki, N. Lecoq, C. L. Solano, B. Laignel
Date de sortie 19/04/2022
Marine Geology, volume 447
Marine Geology

A long-term dataset of topography and nearshore bathymetry at the macrotidal pocket beach of Porsmilin, France

Long-term datasets documenting the evolution of coastal forms and processes, through the provision of recurring beach as well as shoreface morphological observations and accompanying time-series of environmental controls, remain difficult to collect and are rarely made available. However, they are increasingly needed to further our understanding of coastal change and to improve the models that will help planning what our future coast will be.
  • Article scientifique

S. Bertin, F. Floc'h, N. Le Dantec, M. Jaud, R. Cancouët, M. Franzetti, V. Cuq, C. Prunier, J. Ammann, E. Augereau, S. Lamarche, D. Belleney, M. Rouan, L. David, A. Deschamps, C. Delacourt, S. Suanez
Date de sortie 11/03/2022
Scientific Data 9, article 79
Survey site. (a) Map of western France. (b) DEM of northwest Brittany coastline (source: MNT  Bathymétrique de façade Atlantique67 (Projet Homonim) - Shom) showing the location of Pierres Noires  CANDHIS wave buoy (node 47039) and Le Conquet tidal gauge (green square and triangle, respectively)

Ecoregional and temporal dynamics of dugong habitat use in a complex coral reef lagoon ecosystem

Mobile marine species display complex and nonstationary habitat use patterns that require understanding to design effective management measures. In this study, the spatio-temporal habitat use dynamics of the vulnerable dugong (Dugong dugon) were modelled from 16 satellite-tagged individuals in the coral reef lagoonal ecosystems of New Caledonia, South Pacific.
  • Article scientifique

S. Derville, C. Cleguer, C. Garrigue
Date de sortie 11/01/2022
Scientific Reports 12, article 552
Figure 1  Interpolated dugong GPS tracks recorded in 2012, 2013 and 2019 over the west coast of New Caledonia, South Pacific. The 16 tracks are split in different colors depending on the ecoregion they are in. Ecoregions identified through hierarchical clustering of environmental lagoon characteristics are represented with colored polygons. Ecoregion 3 is divided into two separate parts, one to the north of ecoregion 2 and another in between ecoregion 1 and 2. Land is shown in black and shallow reefs are sh

Seiches à l’échelle de baies : origines et identification des périodes propres d’oscillations à partir des données d’observations sur le long terme en Provence à partir du réseau HTM-NET

L’étude présentée sur les oscillations résonantes dans des bassins semi-ouverts de la côte provençale est basée sur l’analyse des données de niveaux issus de stations du réseau d’observation HTM-NET, composées de deux capteurs piézométriques, l’un immergé et l’autre émergé, permettant de connaitre la pression atmosphérique, le niveau d’eau et la température avec une période d’échantillonnage de 2 min. Elle concerne les baies de La Ciotat, de Sanary, la Rade de Toulon (grande et petite rades), le Golfe de Giens et la Rade d’Hyères.
  • Article scientifique

V. Rey , C. Paugam, C. Dufresne, D. Mallarino, T. Missamou, J.-L. Fuda
Date de sortie 2022
Paralia - XVIIèmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier – Génie Civil, Chatou
Seiches à l’échelle de baies

Seasonal runup variability at a reef-lined beach: field assessments in the Caribbean

The proposed article deals with the assessment of coral reef impact on runup-induced coastal flooding over a two years and 10 months period at Anse Maurice, a reef-fringed pocket beach located at Guadeloupe Island, in the Caribbean region. The reef is mainly constituted by complex structures of Acropora Palmata dead colonies. Daily maximum marine inundation was assessed using a fixed video system. Daily Highest Runups (DHR) remains primarily correlated to individual storm event as extreme runups are observed in correlation with storm swells.
  • Article scientifique

T. Laigre, Y. Balouin, A. Nicolae-Lerma, N. Valentini, D. Villarroel-Lamb, M. Moisan, Y. De la Torre
Date de sortie 2022
Paralia - XVIIèmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier – Génie Civil, Chatou
Incident wave and sea-level conditions and Camera derided observations  from April 2019 to May 2021. (a) Offshore wave conditions on MARC model. (B) Sealevel variations on Pointe-à-Pitre tide gauge, 14 days moving mean is represented in  red. (c) daily times tacks with detection of maximum swash limit (black line). (d)  Evolution of the DHR on the profile