Publications scientifiques

Cette page liste les productions scientifiques ou autres liées notamment à l'observation du niveau de la mer, à l'instrumentation ou aux applications.

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Modelling the annual primary production of an intertidal brown algal community based on in situ measurements

Intertidal communities dominated by canopy-forming brown algae (Phaeophyceae) usually prove to be highly productive systems, based on short-term measurements. However, long-term metabolism (primary production and respiration) is sensitive to several factors acting on different time scales (e.g. tidal cycle, seasonality), making its assessment challenging. Here, we used mathematical modelling to investigate the metabolism of a Fucus serratus-dominated community on daily and annual time scales.
  • Article scientifique

F. Bordeyne, A. Migné, M. Plus, D. Davoult
Marine Ecology Progress Series, volume 656
MPES

16 years of topographic surveys of rip-channelled high-energy meso-macrotidal sandy beach

Sandy beaches are highly dynamic environments buffering shores from storm waves and providing outstanding recreational services. Long-term beach monitoring programs are critical to test and improve shoreline, beach morphodynamics and storm impact models. However, these programs are relatively rare and mostly restricted to microtidal alongshore-uniform beaches. The present 16-year dataset contains 326 digital elevation models and their over 1.635 × 106 individual sand level measurements at the high-energy meso-macrotidal rip-channelled Truc Vert beach, southwest France.
  • Article scientifique

B. Castelle, S. Bujan, V. Marieu, S. Ferreira
Scientific Data 7, article 410
Example of topographic survey product. (a) Example of Truc Vert beach survey with colour bar and grey dots indicating AMSL elevation in metres and individual survey points, respectively, (b) superimposed 20-m spaced beach profiles (grey) and their alongshore average (black) with the horizontal error bars indicating the ±1 cross-shore standard deviation, (c) axis equal DEM.

Earthquakes and extreme rainfall induce long term permeability enhancement of volcanic island hydrogeological systems

Earthquakes affect near-surface permeability, however temporal permeability evolution quantification is challenging due to the scarcity of observations data. Using thirteen years of groundwater level observations, we highlight clear permeability variations induced by earthquakes in an aquifer and overlaying aquitard. Dynamic stresses, above a threshold value PGV > 0.5 cm s−1, were mostly responsible for these variations. We develop a new model using earth tides responses of water levels between earthquakes.
  • Article scientifique

B. Vittecoq, J. Fortin, J. Maury, S. Violette
Scientific Reports 10, article 20231
Co-seismic drawdown modelling. (a) Water level drop during the 10th first days, and (b) refinement on the 48th first hours after earthquakes, have been modelled considering a simple one-dimensional model of confined aquifer44. Results show a low diffusivity variability (mean = 3 m2 s−1, standard deviation = 3 m2 s−1). These water levels drop match with type 3 (down-down) responses44, as the groundwater level continued to decline following a co-seismic fall, associated with a sudden increase in transmissivit

Impacts des séries de tempêtes de 2013 à 2018 sur l’évolution récente des cordons dunaires du nord de la France

Dans cet article, nous étudions l’évolution des cordons dunaires à l’est de Dunkerque, au nord de la France, sur une période s’étalant de novembre 2012 à février 2018. Elle se base sur l’analyse de relevés topographiques à haute fréquence, couplés à des données marégraphiques et de vent à la côte ainsi qu’à des enregistrements de vagues au large. Cette période d’étude a été marquée par plusieurs événements tempétueux dont les plus remarquables se sont produits au cours de l’hiver 2013/2014 ainsi qu’en janvier 2017 et en janvier 2018.
  • Article scientifique

A. Zemmour, M.-H. Ruz
Géomorphologie, volume 27
Illustration des limites utilisées pour le calcul des variations de volumes sédimentaires de la dune, du haut de plage et de l’estran

The contribution of short-wave breaking to storm surges: The case Klaus in the Southern Bay of Biscay

This study investigates the contribution of short-wave breaking to storm surges through a high-resolution hindcast of the sea state and storm surge associated with the extra-tropical storm Klaus. This storm made landfall in January 2009 in the Southern Bay of Biscay and produced the largest storm surges observed in this region over the last 20 years, with 1.70 m in the Arcachon Lagoon and 1.10 m in the Adour Estuary.
  • Article scientifique

L. Lavaud, X. Bertin, K. Martins, G. Arnaud, M.-N. Bouin
Ocean Modelling, volume 156
(A) Bathymetric map and extension of the computational domain (red dashdotted line), the storm track (blue dashed line and crosses) and the wave buoys (blue triangles) used in this study. (B) and (C) Detailed bathymetry of the studied areas with location of the tide gauges (black stars). The black box in (B) corresponds to the adjacent beach where the sensitivity of storm surge and wave setup predictions to the grid resolution is analysed.

Assessment of the Shoreline Evolution at the Eastern Giens Tombolo of France

Giens double tombolo linking Giens island to the mainland is a unique geomorphological formation in the world. However, its existence has been threatened by coastal erosion, especially in the eastern part of this tombolo. The investigation of historical shoreline changes along the eastern Giens tombolo were carried out applying the integration of satellite remote sensing and geographic information system (GIS) techniques. Additionally, the combination of the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) and linear regression method was used to predict the location of future shorelines.
  • Article scientifique

M. T. Vu, Y. Lacroix, Q. H. Vu
Proceedings of the International Conference on Innovations for Sustainable and Responsible Mining, Springer, Cham
Proceedings of the International Conference on Innovations for Sustainable and Responsible Mining

Timescales of emergence of chronic nuisance flooding in the major economic centre of Guadeloupe

Chronic flooding, occurring at high tides under calm weather conditions, is occasionally taking place today in the low-lying areas of the Petit-Cul-de-sac marin (Guadeloupe, West Indies, French Antilles). This area includes critical industrial, harbor and major economic infrastructures for the island. As sea level rises, concerns are growing regarding the possibility for repeated chronic flooding events, which would alter the operations at these critical coastal infrastructures without appropriate adaptation.
  • Article scientifique

G. Le Cozannet, I. Déborah, M. de Michele, Y. Legendre, M. Moisan, R. Pedreros, R. Thiéblemont, G. Spada, D. Raucoules, Y. de la Torre
NHESS
tide gauge data. (a) time series of raw data (black: raw cleaned data, red: data removed from the analysis, and  corresponding to the cyclones, identified with blue lines). (b) distribution of daily maxima, after the water level data post510 processing described in section 3.3 (cyclone removed, year and day filtering, detrended sea-level rise).

Influence des modifications morphologiques de l'avant-côte sur l'hydrodynamisme et l'évolution du littoral des Hauts-de-France depuis le XIXe siècle

Dans les environnements côtiers, les interactions entre les processus morphodynamiques, océanographiques et anthropiques (agissant sur différentes échelles de temps) contrôlent l'évolution des systèmes littoraux. Cette thèse est axée sur une échelle de temps séculaire afin de déterminer l'influence non seulement des activités humaines, mais aussi l'impact du changement climatique.
  • Article scientifique

A. Latapy
Université Littoral Côte d'Opale - LOG
Thèse Latapy

Climate-scale changes of the semidiurnal tide over the North Atlantic coasts from 1846 to 2018

We investigated the long-term changes of the principal tidal component M₂ over the North Atlantic coasts, from 1846 to 2018. We analysed 9 tide gauges with time series starting no later than 1920. The longest is Brest with 165 years of observations. We carefully processed the data, particularly to remove the 18.6-year nodal modulation. We found that M₂ variations are consistent at all the stations in the North East Atlantic (Newlyn, Brest, Cuxhaven), whereas some discrepancies appear in the North West Atlantic.
  • Article scientifique

L. Pineau Guillou, P. Lazure, G. Wöppelmann
Ocean Science
Tide gauges in the North Atlantic. Stations with time series starting before 1920 and longer than 80 years are labelled. Stations selected for this study are in bold